Oil pump removed - it pulls straight off after the two nuts are removed. There is a splined collar inside that connects the pump to the drive shaft. The collar should be lifted out.
Oil pump and connecting collar.
The two long vertical bolts that clamp the rear of the sump. They are located in the drillings at the junction of the sump and flywheel cover. The bottom nuts are peened over; undo the upper nuts and withdraw from the bottom.
The side flanges are held by alternate long and short bolts. It can be seen where the 6 long bolts fit into cast bosses. The front and rear boss on either side of the sump are held by the register bolts shown above.
On this side of the engine only (left side) it is advantageous that two bolts are fitted up side down (shown by the white arrows). The majority of bolts are fitted with the head uppermost.
The sump pan can be removed without removing the timing cover. The latter must have all of the fasteners loosened and the lower bolts removed.
It is an advantage to use a box spanner (tube wrench) to remove the sump nuts. The front nut on each flange is only accessible using a box spanner.
With luck, the pan just lifts off - unless somebody used instant gasket last time!
The black blob on the left wall of the sump is the mortal remains of the oil level indicator. This has expanded with age and reads about two pints too high - another job during the rebuild.